Fashion Memo

The Baguette is back. So is the small shoulder bag

Twenty-five years after Fendi first sent it out, the under-arm bag is having its real second act. Here is why the moment is bigger than one house.

Fendi Baguettes in beading, sequins and animal prints at the Autumn/Winter 2026 show

At the Fendi Autumn/Winter 2026 show, Maria Grazia Chiuri, freshly returned to the house where she began her career on the accessories team in the late 1990s, sent twenty-three new Baguettes down the runway. It was not a nostalgia project. It was a rewrite. The bag returned to its original style code, the number 26424, and to the slightly East-West silhouette that made it a phenomenon in the first place.

Then it went in every direction Chiuri could take it. Beading. Paillettes. Embroidery. Animal prints. Crackle leather. Saddle stitching. A leopard version came with floral embroidered inlays. A zebra version arrived with sequins and red beadwork trim. And then Sarah Jessica Parker, star of the show that made the bag famous in the first place, appeared in the campaign photographed by Bibi Borthwick. The cultural loop closed.

The reason this matters beyond one designer's runway is that the Baguette is not the only shoulder bag returning. The whole silhouette is back. The small under-arm bag with a short strap, worn tucked against the body, sitting on the hip. It replaces the last five years of oversized totes and cross-body slings, both of which suddenly read younger and busier than the moment wants. What is arriving now is a bag you carry, not a bag you sling on and forget about.

This is more than a Fendi story. Loro Piana has been quietly building the case for this for two years with the Extra Pocket L19, L27, and L29, now firmly the bag of the fashion editor. Miu Miu is running its knee-highs with small structured top-handles. Prada has returned to a compact shoulder bag with a chain strap. The category that felt over is not over. It has changed hands.

If you are looking at all of this thinking you are not going to buy a Fendi Baguette, that is fine. Almost no one is. What you should take from the moment is the silhouette, not the label. A small structured bag with a short strap, worn on the shoulder, in a colour that reads as considered rather than obvious. Burgundy. Chocolate. Black. Cream. Something that photographs well from the side and holds its shape when you set it down.

The measurements to look for are the ones that matter for wearing the bag well. A short strap that keeps the bag under the arm, not swinging at the hip. A width that runs longer than the height by a real margin, the East-West line the Baguette named. A structure that holds itself. A closure that is either a flap or a top zip, not a magnet, which never quite closes correctly.

Style it with a knit and a trouser. Style it with a coat. Style it with a slip dress and a heel. It replaces the tote for anything that is not a work day. It replaces the sling for anything that is not the airport. And it is the accessory that will most quickly modernise an outfit that could otherwise be from any of the last five autumns.

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